Skin guide · Pigmentation

Melasma in Darker Skin: What to Know and How I Approach It

Skin consultation for melasma at Glow By Yaz, Milton Keynes

Many people who come to me about melasma have medium to deeper skin tones and have already tried plenty of products. This guide explains what melasma is, why it can behave differently in darker skin, and how I plan treatment at my clinic at 21 Wharfside, Fenny Stratford, Milton Keynes.

What melasma is

The British Association of Dermatologists (BAD) describes melasma, sometimes called chloasma or "pregnancy mask", as a common condition in which flat brown or greyish patches develop, usually on the cheeks, forehead, upper lip, nose and chin. It is not itchy, contagious or cancerous. The BAD says melasma is more common in women, in people of colour and in people who tan very quickly, although it can affect anyone.

Why melasma can be harder to treat in deeper skin

There are two main reasons I take extra care with darker skin.

It tends to come back. The BAD notes that melasma often returns after treatment stops, whatever your skin tone, so any honest plan includes long-term sun protection and home care.

Irritation can leave its own marks. Deeper skin is more prone to darker marks after inflammation or irritation (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation), so harsh scrubs, strong DIY acids or an aggressive treatment can leave more pigmentation, not less. The BAD warns that chemical peels should be carried out by an experienced practitioner, because they can make pigmentation worse, leave patches lighter than the surrounding skin or cause scarring. It also notes that some lasers can worsen pigmentation or leave lighter patches, which it says is seen more often in people of colour.

So my approach is steady rather than aggressive: prepare the skin, choose the right strength and support it afterwards.

Triggers to manage: sun, hormones and heat

The exact cause of melasma is not known. The BAD links it to pigment cells producing too much pigment, with several contributing factors.

Sun and visible light

UV light from the sun and sunbeds can trigger melasma or make it worse, and the BAD says high-energy visible light may also contribute.

Hormones

The BAD lists pregnancy, hormonal contraception and hormone replacement as contributing factors.

Heat and irritation

The BAD recommends gentle skincare without fragrance.

Sun protection every day

The BAD recommends broad-spectrum sunscreen of SPF 30 or above with a high UVA rating, a wide-brimmed hat and no sunbeds. It notes that sunscreens containing iron oxides can add protection against visible light. The NHS recommends at least SPF 30 with at least 4-star UVA protection, applied generously and reapplied regularly when you are outdoors.

Sun protection and Cosmelan home-care products at Glow By Yaz

Why consultation and preparation matter

Every pigmentation treatment at Glow By Yaz starts with a £20 skin consultation, in clinic or by video, and the £20 comes off your treatment if you go ahead. At your consultation I:

  • look at the type and depth of your pigmentation, as melasma, sun spots and post-breakout marks need different plans;
  • ask about your health, medication, contraception, sun exposure and skincare;
  • explain downtime honestly and tell you plainly if a treatment is not right for you.

Options I offer for melasma

These are the professional mesoestetic options I use for pigmentation. Booksy describes Cosmelan as suitable for most skin types and tones, and your consultation confirms whether it suits you.

Cosmelan

Cosmelan is mesoestetic's professional depigmentation method: I apply the Cosmelan 1 mask in clinic, you remove it at home when I advise, then continue with Cosmelan 2 home care. Redness, dryness and peeling can happen. It runs as a six-month programme:

  • Signature Package, £675
  • Advanced Package, £1,200 (includes six months' worth of Cosmelan 2)
  • Ultimate 6 Month Treatment, £1,500 (includes six months of Cosmelan 2 and a prep pack four weeks before your peel)

Read more on my Cosmelan treatment in Milton Keynes page.

Mesopeels

Mesopeels are professional mesoestetic peels chosen for your skin concern, such as Melanostop Tranex for pigmentation, melasma and uneven tone. They are £75 per peel, or £400 for a course of six spaced about 10 to 14 days apart. My Cosmelan vs Mesopeel guide compares the two.

Prices as listed on Booksy, checked 2 November 2026. Prices can change, so please check Booksy for current prices.

You can compare all my options on the pigmentation and melasma treatment in Milton Keynes page. Individual results vary.

When to see a GP or dermatologist

Some melasma creams can only be prescribed by a doctor. Please see your GP if a patch or mole is changing in size, shape or colour, bleeding or itching, if you are unsure what a mark is, or if pigmentation started with a new medicine. If I am unsure about anything at your consultation, I will refer you to your GP first.

Frequently asked questions

Is melasma more common in darker skin?

The British Association of Dermatologists says melasma is more common in people of colour and in people who tan very quickly, although it can affect anyone. It is also more common in women.

Will my melasma go away for good?

The BAD says treatments may improve its appearance, but melasma often returns, especially with sun or hormonal changes. That is why daily SPF and home care are part of every plan.

Is Cosmelan suitable for darker skin?

Booksy describes Cosmelan as suitable for most skin types and tones. Whether it suits you depends on your skin, health and pigmentation, which is why a £20 consultation always comes first.

Will a chemical peel make my pigmentation worse?

It can if it is not chosen and carried out carefully. The BAD notes peels should be done by an experienced practitioner. I choose the treatment and strength for your skin and give you clear aftercare.

Can I have melasma treatment while pregnant or breastfeeding?

Please tell me at your consultation if you are pregnant or breastfeeding, so I can advise on what is suitable for you. Melasma that appears in pregnancy may fade after the baby is born, so I usually recommend gentle skincare and sun protection until then.

How much does a consultation cost?

A skin consultation is £20, at my clinic in Fenny Stratford, Milton Keynes, or by video. If you go ahead with treatment, the £20 comes off the price.

Book your melasma consultation on Booksy

Start with a £20 consultation at my clinic in Fenny Stratford or by video. I will look at your skin properly and explain your options honestly. Glow By Yaz is an official mesoestetic partner clinic.

Book on Booksy or call the clinic on 07309 413371.

This guide is general information, not medical advice. Individual results vary.

Sources

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Not sure what suits your skin?

Book a £20 skin consultation, in clinic or by video. If you go ahead and book a treatment, the £20 is taken off your treatment price.

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